Thursday 10 February 2011

Questions- [Oswald Boeteng the Brief]

Liam Maher, 46 Designer at Denham, Amsterdam


To what extent do you consider the fabric when choosing a garment?


To a great extent of course. It is crucial. The design is a song but the fabric is the band. The wrong band is going to seriously handicap the song. That can be heartbreaking. Hell, it can even be irresponsible in a way. But the right band bringing the right song to life, that`s magic. I am particularly inspired when i can orchestrate movements where unexpected fabrics begin to stack up on and compliment each other, Fabrics which have utility-based origins but are now often thought more simply as traditional, being used against contemporary utility fabrics- together in an outfit can be real cool.


What is the reason behind you chosen silhouette?


My father was an officer in the Royal Navy who participated in the Normandy invasion on D-Day. He was also distinguished professor and senior administrator in an Ivy League University. My uncle was a comic book artist who drew the X-Men series for a decade. My great grandfather was a rural tailor in Ireland, You'd find my taste in silhouette somewhere between the frank symmetry of a military stance, the gentle slouch of the absent minded academic and the muscularity and slight hint of pending aggression of a comic book character. But you would also have to accept that i was a rural Irish tailor stitching these otherwise unrelated elements together. In other words my tastes are genetically predictable.


What does 25 years mean to you?


Getting old enough to appreciate the difference between a mere, ''score'' of twenty years and the significant achievement of crossing the jubilee line. Something about a quarter of a century implies serious achievement and consistency at the same time a representing an experience we can applicate in our own lifetime. Long enough to give birth to a new tradition, still recent enough to feel absolutely contemporary and relevant.


Patrik Binkowski, 34 DJ, Stockholm


To what extent do you consider the fabric when choosing a garment?


A good garment has to be compelling in three ways in order for me to buy it. (four if you count in a reasonable price). First of all the  texture and color is what catches my eye. Next step is touch, it has to feel right. What composition is it? Weaving Structure? Nothing tells me more about the quality of a fabric than rubbing it between your fingers, slightly pushing a finger into the cloth, stretching it.....Hell, sometimes i even smell it!


What is the reason behind your chosen silhouette?


I prefer a quite British tailored fit, simply because it is the best for my body type. Still for a relaxed weekend look i don't mind wearing  something truly classic, like higher and wider pants or a ''regular fitted shirt''. A good thing about a nice tailored blazer for instance, is what is does for you posture. Same goes for shoes; its hard to walk sloppy in a pair of well polished brogues. Being a tall guy i was taught from an early age to keep my chin up and back straight, and its just so much easier when you take in the back of a suit jacket than wearing a baggy hoody.


What does 25 years mean to you?


The age where i realized who i was and what i was going to do with my life. The age i defined myself through my style and my career. The acquisition of confidence and purpose. It was the beginning of my life as an adult you could say.


Sam Putera, 22, Graphic Designer, London


What extent do you consider the fabric when choosing a garment?


When i buy a piece of clothing that style and fit is more important than the fabric. I tend to consider the quality of the fabric last after i have considered the construction of the garment. I prefer durable fabrics which will stand the test of time and multiple use. Although when i am browsing for a new item of clothing i tend to feel the material first before picking it up. assessing the quality of the product but it is not the determining factor of purchase. I prefer softer fabric for tee shirts and shirts so that it doesn't rub and make my nipples bleed.


What is the reason behind your chosen silhouette?


A slim fit bottoms and loose tops. Style and comfort- its a compromise of what looks good and what feels good. More so on the' looks good' though.


What does 25 years mean to you?


Er..... I dont know.... a quarter of a century? 

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